Beauty and the Beet: The Brilliant Impression Part II

blow off the cover of preconceptions: sangria is that you?

Part II of Beauty and the Beet: The Brilliant Impression continues here. See previous post below or go here to begin Part I.

Dinner with the family at the original historic Cafe Du Nord continues:

The next course arrives, which turns out to be the most delightful sweetbreads served over a crisp pastry puff.

No time to argue about preferences in offal between the delicate bites that melted in my mouth and lingered of sweet cream with the slight tang of capers that met in the middle of freshly chopped parsley which finally gave way to any preconceived notions.

I discovered something new......it was fun to eat and each bite left me to smile.

For the adults, chilled wine was served inside varied labeless odd shaped wine bottles that were mismatched in color. The bottles came in hues of blues, greens and reds. But no matter the bottle, it was always a pink rosé that trickled forth like drinking water into the stemless bistro style wine glasses.

Next up, beef fillet in a mushroom based sauce served with white beans that were simmered soft until crème-like yet holding its composure.

By this time I was brimming over. The sauce was a reflection of the 'mother sauces' and a beaute to bite. Sweet and savory enough to keep me in the glow.

Sometimes they would bring another salad platter of chilled green beans in a light cream sauce with chopped hard boiled eggs and onions. My walls of resistance came down and I think I was only eight years old.

The final breath of the meal was dessert. Always the same; similar to a custard flan and coffee.

I realize after sharing this that someone from the neighborhood might write to me and blow my buzz about Cafe Du Nord.

berries are so divinely created.....

I went back there during my college years with a bunch of friends for New Year's Eve dinner. I left disappointed as it didn't taste the same or as good to me. The bald gentleman wasn't there but everything else was the same, including the glow and the paintings I spoke of. I remember biting into the beet salad and it tasted like cans and the outer edges of the yolks from the chopped hard boiled eggs had that green tinge. Which meant they were overcooked and didn't bother giving the eggs an ice water bath to avoid the discoloration.

But who am I to say, I went back when I was twenty something with a bunch of riotous friends on New Year's Eve so my vision and palate might have been slightly blurred....(LO!)

In closing, dad encouraged me to take risks because he did that every day of his waking life. It's only today I can only imagine the courageous risks he took.

That's what my mom said: when you have children you'll understand.....

He moved us from Seoul Korea to Saigon Vietnam in the midst of the Vietnam War. He was the food and beverage manager at the the U.S. Army barracks stationed in Vietnam.

We lived in Saigon, then to the coastal town of Vung Tau until we eventually settled in the south central region of Can Tho, before we fled during a mass upheaval in the Can Tho area.

at the beach with dad ~ I recall I was slightly bummed in this pict because I wanted to go swimming.....we're at the beach right? the days when cigarettes were like text messaging.....

My father was able to acquire immediate Visas to the U.S., we hopped an Army issued helicopter in Can Tho to Saigon. Boarded Pan Am with a layover in Honolulu before we settled in San Francisco.

We were very fortunate.

My parents received a letter from a friend that was still in Vietnam. He sent us a photo of our town home in Can Tho.

It was a photo of a pile of rubble and concrete blown to pieces.

When I cook with beets it reminds me of my father.

Courage, passionate, gratitude, depth and a bleeding heart embracing all things that we might normally think as crazy but by far deem as courageous efforts.

Beets do remind me of hearts. I recently read somewhere that drinking two glasses of beet juice a day significantly lowers blood pressure and helps maintain a healthy cardiovascular system. Beet juice might be tasty with pomegranate and/or strawberry, raspberry and fresh ginger juice too. I'll have to try that.....maybe with a splash of cointreau?

to see life as always full don't~cha think would be so freeing perhaps......the remnants of cooking beets: beet juice really!


Beets are bold to me in sight, taste and when raw, their resonance lingers a slight burning sensation more in my lungs than my mouth.

Beets remind me often to take risks perhaps for what you love or what you think you might love......when I think about my dad he was all about taking risks.

If we never went to Vietnam because of my dad he wouldn't have been there to support the American troops.

A recollection of Vietnam was my first dance as a toddler at the American Officer's club located at the roof top restaurant that overlooked the city of Can Tho. On those nights they played Al Martino and Patti Page and served lobster thermidor with T-Bone steaks to the service men and their guests.

My mom said we drank Coca Cola while dad imbibed in a beer and we watched the U.S. Army issued fireworks go off in the night sky.

It was a crazy time.....

my dad loved this thing....that's why he even took a picture of it. what was it called? I remember the rolls of tape were as thin as gift wrap ribbons and were made by 3M.....real flimsy and all I wanted to do was get a hold of one, pull out the tape and run through the house until the whole thing was dragged out of its sprocket......hah ~ fun!

If my dad didn't bring us to California we would have never made it out of Vietnam.

My father embraced the European culture fondly. He was never into being atypical, thus he never cared for stereotypes of anything.

I think what drove his intensity was for the love all things of beauty and for life.

The Beauty and the Beet has been written to remember my father....

Sean Ku Lee

In this life......He left a brilliant impression.



beauty + the beet salad with raspberries & fresh greens
© 2008 recipe & memoir Ingar Brunnett, Taste Memory

2 fresh red beets, skin peeled
1 pint of fresh raspberries
1 tbsp. white sugar
1 bunch of fresh arugula (torn to bite size if needed)
1/4 cup white onion, minced
2 hard boiled eggs, coarsely chopped
sprigs of fresh parsley and chives, chopped

dressing
1 tbsp. honey
1 teasp. sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp. of good olive oil
juice of half a lemon

Slice beets 1/3” thick rounds, then slice in half. In a large saucepan cover beets just enough with water and a pinch of sea salt. Bring water to boil, cover with lid and turn off heat. Allow the beets to stand covered for 5 to 10 minutes until al dente tender to your preference. Avoid over cooking the beets (who wants the mushy canned texture of beets that have incessantly haunted our taste memory?). Drain water from beets.

Add raspberries and sugar to the beets. Gently fold together, then allow to cool.

Cover and chill. Increased chill time in the refrigerator will help restore the intensity of the ruby red color of the cooked beets. They can be chilled for 30 minutes, a few hours or overnight.

In a small bowl whisk the honey, salt, pepper, olive oil and lemon juice until creamy.

Toss the arugula with ¾ of the salad dressing and arrange on serving platter. Drain excess water from beets and berries, then arrange on top of arugula. Pour remaining dressing over the beets. Top with chopped onions, eggs and herbs.

Delicious when served with slices of a crusty bread or baguette

Beauty and the Beet: The Brilliant Impression

Bejewelled: beets, berries, chopped eggs, white onions, minced parsley + chives......light drizzling of honey dressing crosses the threshold.....

This is a smattering of a post.....so I decided to condense this to Part One of Two à la Beauty and the Beet.

Part Two will be posted shortly this week.

My love affair with root vegetables began with the beet.

Perhaps not in the dark earthen crevices below where the dirt is so gravenly wet underground it seeps through your nail beds, but rather off the beaten trek years back when my father took us to dinner at the original historic Cafe Du Nord near San Francisco's Castro District.

Back when it was an inviting supper house complete with its Basque inspired dinner menu served family style. A repast with a set menu that created the tone nightly with six courses and amply served alongside with some obscure chilled rosé strewn in labeless oddly shaped and colored wine bottles.

The tinge of pink through my mother's rosé glass, the beet salad with chopped hard boiled eggs and the red stain from the beet juice soaking through the last shred of my baguette has simmered in my taste memory for so many years.....



i *heart* beets: entranced by a living breathing bleeding geode....

The concept of food + memory has been a frequent haunt of mine and it's only as of recent that I decided to let go of myself, get of out of my freakin' way and excavate through that back logged mind mine beginning with my family stories.

Which in turn has led to finding this space and place to shed light on someone that left with me a brilliant impression.

My father.

My father passed away 6 years ago and his final days came rather abruptly. I will just touch on this briefly about his passing because I don't want this to be an angst post but rather a living tribute to someone that had a profound effect on the development of my person. What I have written is a recollection of just a glimpse his journey that I met along the way of my own.

When I was a little girl my parent's owned and operated a delicatessen in the Mission District in San Francisco during the height of the Bay Area's food revolution. This was an incredible time for me. My curious palate was introduced to the diverse range of cultural cuisines from the neighborhood. There were immigrants from all over the world settling in San Francisco and my parent's deli thrived in the midst of foods from Mexico, El Salvador, Puerto Rico, Russia, Italy....even Japanese home style cooking and of course regional Chinese cooking.

The food at the deli was a reflection of the melting pot of San Francisco as well as traditional delicatessen style fare of sandwiches made with the freshest of San Francisco style French bread and produce.

The sandwiches were made in crusty bread that fought back with slight resistance into a dense yet pillow-like threshold of savory meats, lined with fresh crunchy slivers of lettuce, pickles, tomatoes and whatever else desired. The options of meats included salamis, fresh oven roasted roast beef, pastrami, corned beef, head cheese, Louisiana style hot links (just to name a few). Also on the menu were the new wave of organic and farm fresh inspired sandwiches that payed homage to whole grain sprouted breads, alfalfa sprouts, avocados and for the faint of heart.......bacon.

sourdough for noshing....not from my beloved city ~ but it will do.....at least for now

After a long day at the deli, my father would often take us out to 'dine' for dinner as a family. A restaurant we frequented was Cafe Du Nord located in the Upper Market-Castro district leaning toward the slightly seedy, prior the 'emerging' neighborhood it later became. Now this is the original Cafe Du Nord which was a sort of a quasi-French Basque bistro at the time. Today, Cafe Du Nord is a trendy nightclub, restaurant and live music venue.

After my dad parked the family car, which was either the Chrysler wood paneled station wagon or the obnoxious yacht of a vehicle.....the highly coveted Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham with its own 8-track tape player that was factory installed(this was all top of the line stuff btw even the station wagon which eventually met its demise after one of the wood panels finally faded and fell off); we would take a flight of steep stairs downward into the basement of a storefront which was the perfect cave like setting for the literal 'underground' Cafe Du Nord.

The historic cafe was built in 1907 and at one time was a notorious speakeasy during prohibition. It was pretty much what you would imagine it to look like; dimly lit with odd sized and handsome antique dining tables throughout the main dining room with an evocative yet bucolic ambiance. Many locals frequented this eatery which had enough of slight upscale vibe with a familiar ease to call it their favorite neighborhood bistro.

speakeasy to me......is that you beaujolais?

On the walls were series of oil paintings that thematically reminded me of the revolutionary romantic period of Theodore Géricault, Ingres and even the idyllic American painter Turner......oh my art history days, which should be a completely other blog.....sorry. Anyways, these were not the canny paintings you've seen at your gas station corner and those blow out events at your nearest convention center in need of rental fees in between major events, but rather the restaurateur's quite exquisite and most likely personal collection of paintings. The collections were complete with fruit & wine still life, formal portraits, battle scenes, courtship and even tall ships in turbulent waters. Each painting was also lovingly installed with its own spotlight to feature its beauty. I know the subject matter may sound canny but I do recall these paintings to be quite impressive.

The owner was a short bald gentleman with an extremely thick mustache that twisted ever so slightly upward at each end (yes, seriously!). He was the exact reflection of what the proprietor might look like in such an establishment.

There was a painting in the main dining room of a man in a old fashioned military uniform; perhaps he was a general as he wore many decorated medals upon his uniform and he was painted with great distinction. He had the same facial features and the mustache as the proprietor, which led my parents to joke with a sense of seriousness that it must be a relative of his.

Upon arrival, we would often find him sitting at the hand carved mahogany bar near the baby grand piano reading a paper. He always gave a familiar nod to my father. I’m not surprised he recognized us as we frequented there often and I am positive we were the only Asian family and definitely Koreans that dined there.

As I am rummaging through my thoughts, I cannot seem to recover some of the conversations my family had over dinner at Cafe Du Nord. It actually saddens me that I am drawing a blank on specific words that were exchanged with my dad, my mom and my little brother during these special times out. It seems as if it were another lifetime ago and the words have been erased from my memory.

What I do recall are certain 'moments' as we sat around the bistro table. The dining room always had a tranquility that I was instantly drawn to upon arrival. The lighting was warm and dim.....a glow emanated throughout. My dad's stress level would ease as soon as we arrived, and it's only today that I realize how much stress effected his life.

Since we arrived after closing the deli, it must have been around 7:30 in the evening before we settled in for dinner.

They offered only a prix fixe menu was set each night with about seven courses that was served family style.

Upon arrival, I was always.....famished.

An evening meal remembered began with the first course of a salad of bibb lettuce, celery, white onions with a aïoli based dressing with a hint of mustard and fresh tarragon that seeped through each bite.

herb pot in early spring: this is what survived the harsh winters :) of the south.....gathered a handful of parsley and chives to topple over the chopped eggs for the beet salad. the cactus type plant on the far right corner reminds me of SoCal. Don't know what it's called....I know it's a succulant, no wait...succotash? or isn't that lima beans + corn? maybe succulant....

I was little girl back then, yet so hungry and intrigued by the setting that I didn't have time to complain about white onions, aïoli based dressing, mustard or the fresh sprigs of licorice intent tarragon.

The salad was refreshing and I enjoyed the tang and retreat of the mustard and tarragon that played upon my developing palate.

Baskets of chewy baked french bread was served alongside and refilled without asking.

Soon after, the second course arrived. Soup of the day ladled into white bowls that reminded me of wading pools just deep enough were filled with a hearty yet translucent tomato based potage of bite size morsels of tender vegetables and beef. Upon finishing the bowl of soup, I always sensed it whispered to me.......welcome my lady.

The third course was a salad of chilled marinated red beets with chopped hard boiled eggs and onions. A recourse to cleanse the palate.

Again, I didn't have the urgency to say anything about my opinion on beets.

I do remember my father encouraging us to try different foods. His ways encouraged me to step into unfamiliar territory......actually constantly! Many times, I saw perhaps how he saw the beauty of the unacquainted.

In so many of his words, if you don't try......how would you ever know?

So with distinct recollection, I do remember the sweet floral taste of the beets combined with the earth tones of the chopped eggs and onions as an amusing play on my senses. Crusty french bread combines perfectly with cooked beets and by this time I recall my mother telling me not to eat too much bread since more was to come.

berries & beets making merry....

I used my last shred of baguette to bring up the ruby red juice with crumblings of eggs and sweet onions before taking my pause.

Next......the most delightful sweetbreads served over a crisp pastry puff......but I'll save that for next time.

Part Two of Beauty and the Beet will be posted this week.......

Thank you for reading ;-)

portrait of a garden

Friday night healthy meatless supper included my favorite ingredients for this jewel of a salad I have named 'Bethany's Garden'.....it just looks like that....it looks like Bethany's Garden to me.....


a simple bouquet of watercress is how it got started ~ I found this beautiful bouquet of organic watercress looking up at me @ the produce aisle at my local Native Sun. It reminded me of summer and running outside at night.....then it made me smile ~ so I decided it should come home with me......


the corn kernels are raw too....they're sweeter raw....when corn is served raw it's considered a vegetable & not a starch ~ let's save the starch for the BREAD

I made this gorgeous salad last Friday night with the organic watercress (the one shown above) that followed me home from Native Sun. This was literally a last minute supper thrown together in haste. It's also a meatless day for me (Lenten Fridays!) so I grilled a wild rice tempeh patty with water, wine & soy sauce, then topped it with organic rennet free cheddar cheese on Ezekiel bread - turned out to be a savory & filling Friday night dinner.

When was the last time I had fish sticks and tator tots for Fridays during Lent???

That might actually be a great cooking challenge to remake a healthy retro version of that......

The salad I made included the following organic ingredients which amped up the taste value considerably - organic watercress+beets+carrots and organic raw almonds.

I also prefer to use old fashion carrots in their natural born SHAPE - not the pre-formed baby carrots which are completely tasteless! Try going back to eating and cooking with big meaty carrots and you'll taste the difference in quality.

You'll return to the sweet, crunchy and earthy taste of a true root vegetable rather than biting into pre-meditated water-filled Styrofoam.

Unfortunately, I don't live in an area where farm fresh organic produce is overtly available in mass diverse selections....ie: think massive access @ New York's GREENMARKET.

I was in Manhattan last November '07, when I finally walked up from the subway onto Union Square Park and found myself in the middle of farmer's market heaven ~ i literally ~ nearly began to well up with tears....nearly....

Luckily what I do have access to is one of my favorite locales @ Native Sun, as mentioned earlier as well as my local grocery store Publix which is beginning to carry a significant selection of organic goods.

So work with what you have and at least try it. It makes such a significant difference in taste and ultimately in your health ~ as well as those that sit down and 'supp with you!

Here's the salad recipe I managed to orchestrate for Friday night's dinner:


really not too much prep time ~ YES these are raw beets and raw almonds and s w e e t as can be


Bethany's Garden: salad & dressing recipe
© 2008 Ingar Brunnett, TasteMemory.com

2 large carrots, shaved with a potato peeler
1/2 cup white onion, finely shredded
1 bunch of fresh watercress, bottom 'root' ends trimmed
2 ears of uncooked corn, kernels removed*
1 fresh beet, outer skin peeled off then sliced into matchsticks
1 cup raw almonds, hand crushed with mallet in a plastic bag

easy garlic ginger dressing
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 cup good olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely minced
1 fresh garlic clove, finely minced
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, whisk all the ingredients together for the dressing.

In a medium bowl, combine the carrots, onions and 1/4 portion of the prepared dressing. Combine dressing with shaved carrot mixture and set aside in refrigerator.

Prep salad ingredients as noted above.

*Trim corn off the cobb: Place medium size bowl on a flat surface. Place flat corn cobb end inside the bowl with one end of the cobb on the bottom of the bowl. Hold the top end with one hand to keep upright. Use a small sharp knife to trim the kernels off the cob beginning from the top of the cobb and running the knife through to the bottom. Trimming the cobb inside the bowl will keep the kernels from shooting all over your kitchen counter and floor.

In a large salad platter, gently toss remaining dressing with watercress. Gently combine the marinated carrots to the watercress. Top with corn kernels, beets and almonds.

This savory melange of a salad is delicious with chewy, dense whole grain bread or you can make toastettes from my favorite sprouted whole grain bread: Ezekiel Bread with a brush of olive oil, light sprinklings sea salt & shavings of Horizon Organic Cheddar Cheese which is absolutely rennet free and tastes like the real deal.....

Also ~ Thank you for visiting me and all your awesome comments. I am really glad to have met all of you this past week through cybersphere - again thank you for stopping by! It's been great visiting your blogs too and reading about what is happening on your side of the globe.....and thank you to Blogger for highlighting Taste Memory as one of your blogs of note ;-) !!!

Also on the pending posting list for Korean Cooking fans.....Yuk Gae Jang: Spicy Korean Beef Soup.....that's up next since I can currently tell it's been a visual obsession of mine for the past week.

Peace